Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Preparing for Cameroon – Lobéké National Park II

Preparing for Cameroon – Lobéké National Park II

Lobéké National Park is managed by WWF. I was lucky and got actual information about park from their local office at Yaounde.

Jengi Ecotourism: pearls in the forest

Major Attractions

1 Forest clearings (bais)

The large forest clearings widely known by the Baka pygmy name of bais offer huge opportunities for are highly visited by foraging large mammals such as elephants, gorillas, bongo antelopes and host of many other forest species. Some of the bais are larger than football pitches with soils that are rich in various minerals thus attracting mega fauna of the forest. Observation towers (miradors) have been constructed in certain bais in Lobeke and Boumba Bek to support both ecological monitoring work and accommodate tourists. Miradors are wooden structures standing some 5metres above ground level that can accommodate about 5 persons for over nights in the bais. These miradors have been constructed in bais where all season accessed is guaranteed.

2 Bird watching

More than 330 bird species have so far been recorded in the region . Bird watching tours inside the forest could be done using the numerous existing nature trails or guided trips along the major rivers of Sangha and Ngoko which also serve as international boundaries.

3 Sport fishing

The various rivers in the region are quite rich in aquatic fauna with more than 183 different fish species already recorded. At least two species are new to science and probably more. The area of the Nki between the Nki-falls and the Chollet Falls, as well as the Yombi-river. Guided fishing tours can be organized on the Sangha and Ngoko rivers not withstanding the very attractive and scenic beauty that offers with numerous fishing islands.
Other interesting aspects of sport fishing are the use of traditional fishing methods of fencing mostly done by the Baka pygmies during the dry season period. Shrimp fishing is another exciting activity especially group shrimp fishing with over nights in the forest.

4 Organized traditional hunting

Traditional hunting using poisoned bows-and-arrows remains a remarkable domain of Baka pygmies especially in terms of marks-man-ship. It is one of the most exciting and adventurous hunting methods combined with in forest expeditions that it characterizes. This particular hunting method is widely carried out by medium aged and young people mostly in small-organized social groups. It targets usually medium and small sized duikers but notably diurnal primates. Besides using bow-and-arrow methods during such hunting expeditions, Baka pygmy also indulge in mimicking distress calls of various animal species that in the process are hunted.

5 Expeditions to Nki falls

The Nki falls represent a very attractive tourist site in the region given its natural scenic beauty and relatively untouched nature of its forest. Nki falls could be easily reached by waters on River Ngoko from Moloundou. It takes about 5hours of jolly boat ride that could be combined with bird watching and interesting animal observations along the way. Nki falls is also known for its endemic and rich fish fauna with some of the latest discoveries new to science.
It is one of the rare sites in Central African sub region where the forest still remains relatively untouched. The numerous bais of the area with abundant wildlife makes it a very fascinating site for eco-tourism development.

6 Sports hunting

The sport hunting industry is one of the most developed industries and economically viable commercial activity in southeast Cameroon. Sport hunting by mostly North Americans and Europeans has been going on in the region for more than two decades. Sports hunting outfits that are mostly owned by Europeans (Spanish, Italian, Danish etc) fly in clients every 6months to hunt various forest wildlife species. Besides hunting, most of the clients also participate in photographic tourism given the exciting and adventurous nature of sport hunting particularly in the forest areas.

Ethno-tourism

Tourists can pay to experience the everyday life and activities of the indigenous population, Baka pygmy and Bagando.
Some of the activities include, forest expeditions with Baka pygmies for bush mangoes harvesting, hunting and fishing. Experiencing aspects like tapping of raffia palm wine notably by Bagando could also be very interesting.
Other aspects would include participation in renowned cultural festivals as Jengi that is organised every year to introduce new members into this highly spiritual society. Other folkloric dances include the famous Baka pygmies Tortoise dance that greatly portrays some of the strong affiliations of these people to their environment.

Handicrafts and artefacts

Although traditionally hunters and gatherers, the indigenous population in the region also produce some good quality crafts basically from wood carvings using very durable and high quality wood as Ebony and Sapelli. These carvings sometimes portray the history of the people and also important aspects of their cultures.
In Molundou is found one of the oldest German cemeteries constructed at the end of the First World War marking colonial epoch of the region. There are also so many artefacts on the life of the people, European colonialisation and early settlers in the region scattered all over in region.

Camp Kombo

The Lobeke National Park base known as Camp Kombo is a natural camping place for those who visit the abundantly rich South East Forest region of Cameroon. People who come here include students, researchers, scientists and tourists from all over the world. It is here that HRH Prince Phillip, Duke of Edinburgh and President emeritus of WWF visited and spent a night after attending the famous Yaounde Forest Summit in 1999. Animals too have become guests at the camp. This is understandable when one considers that the camp is planted in the wild at the edge of the Lobeke Park.
Managed for the time being by WWF, it is a temporal base to assist the many visitors to the rich Lobeke Forest. The base is situated near the small village of Mambele in the Moloundou sub-division and about 160 Km away from Yokadouma, the Divisional headquarter of Boumba-et-Ngoko.
Apart from the ten tents set up under thatched roofs, a storehouse and a kitchen, there is nothing artificial about the camp. The few available structures are delicately sandwiched between tree species and wild shrubs leaving the camp trapped in the humidity and darkness that characterises forests of the Congo basin. Perhaps the most exciting attraction at the camp is the fact that from time to time animals migrate to the area from the depths of the forest. Most animals especially monkeys and birds just wander around and leave. The camp charges a token fee of between 10-20 U.S dollars per visitor for maintenance.

Trans-boundary trips

Lobeke National Park is part of a trans-boundary regional protected area network that includes two other national parks, Nouabale-Ndoki National Park, NNNP (Congo-Brazzaville) and Dzanga-Ndoki (CAR). These parks are internationally known for their varied and rich fauna notably in the numerous bais that characterise the vegetation of the region. The various parks could be accessed by air and more easily by land from Lobeke via the River Sangha. It takes about 30minutes of boat ride to reach Bomassa Park HQ of NNNP from Djembe in Lobeke. It will take about 3hours boat ride from Libongo in Lobeke to reach Bayanga the Park HQ of Dzanga-Ndoki, DN, national park. These parks notably DN do have very good and basic infrastructure to accommodate tourist. The famous bai of DN has received wide international attention for its elephants and other wildlife that could be observed everyday throughout the year.

Access and transportation

By Air

The southeast forest region of Cameroon can be accessed easily by air given the numerous air trips constructed by logging companies that can accommodate small planes and 20 sitter carriers as Beech crafts. Lobeke could be assessed from various directions using airstrips of Kika, Libongo and Moloundou that are bordering logging towns. WWF has a contract arrangement with international linguistic centre, SIL that has about three small aircrafts that fly into the region when arranged.

By Land

Most area is land logged making access by land very difficult. The roads are mostly dusty and bumpy with very little maintenance. Not withstanding, most regions including the project area could be accessed using the major trans-Atlantic highways that runs from the capital city into the hinterlands and across the frontiers into CAR and Republic of Congo-Brazzaville. 

Preparing for Cameroon

Preparing for Cameroon

Local alcohol selling is important part of each market. Market at Tourou village at Mandara Mountains. Cameroon. Going to Africa again. My next destination is Cameroon, country at Equatorial part of Africa. It is huge country with many things to see. My time is limited for three weeks only so I need to make some planning beforehand.
Pygmy village down to the Lobe River. The Pygmy people are forest dwellers, know the forest, its plants and its animals. They live by hunting animals such as antelopes, pigs and monkeys, fishing, and gathering honey, wild yams, berries and other plants. Cameroon. I will land at Douala, the largest city at the coast. My plan is to go for few days to Kribi to take a look at famous waterfalls and make pirogue trip along Kribi river to any Pygmy village. Transfer to Limbe to visit botanical garden and sanctuary for endangered primates (gorillas, chimpanzees). Interesting Korup National Park must be skipped due to the lack of time.
Market at the bank of Chari River. Many ethnic from local area make business here (including nomad tribes). Lake Chad area. Cameroon. Next, transfer to Yaounde and by train to the town N’Gaoundere in the North of Cameroon. Continue to Garoua and Maroua. Maroua is town at very interesting region. There is a lot of traditional villages, markets and big ethnic diversity. Also it is close to National Park Waza where I plan to try to spot some animals and birds. Cameroon is also known as destination for bird-watchers. Later I want to continue to Lake Chad. This part depends on current security situation at this part of the country but I hope that everything will be ok and also I will have enough time to reach lake.
It will be probably end of my trip and I will have to return to Yaounde to catch my flight back to home. Interesting area around Bafoussam and Foumban also will be skipped and left for next trip.

Preparing for Cameroon – Lobéké National Park

   Huge amount of forest elephants. Lowland gorillas and chimpanzees. Just few examples of animals living at Lobéké National Park. If you are lucky you should see much more. Region is also known for traditional Baka Pygmy villages.
Description of Lobéké National park and surrounding area is very interesting. I am thinking about adding it to my Cameroon plan. It would be nice to see at least some of the wild animals - I know it is always matter of luck to see some animals at dense rain forest. You can easily hear many animals but at most cases it is impossible to see them. Jungle is so dense so you are happy to see the path and follow it. So I am realistic – with high probability I will not see many animals I see mostly just jungle - is it worth to travel about one week to see just rain forest?  

Cameroon’s diary – Limbe

Cameroon’s diary – Limbe

Chimpanzee, Limbe Wildlife Centre. Cameroon.Another long day. Morning I left Kribi by first bus around 8:00. Surprisingly it was only 30 minutes after “planned” schedule (if anything van be planned at Africa). Global Bush Voyages took me to their bus terminal at centre of Douala. But my today destination is Limbe.
I have to move through Douala to bus terminal at Bonabéri (Bonabéri gare routiére). I am little bit late here around 11 am.   OK I will watt. It is time for „Africa time“. I know I will go today but I have no idea when. I take place at minibus, pay for tickets and discussed with baggage men. Hm… standard trick. I have to pay extra for luggage because I am foreigner. After short bargain I am able to get reasonable price for luggage so I am paying also for this. It is time for lunch. There are a lot of small shops and restaurant to take some rice witch meat and drink. My favorite local soft drink brand is called “Tops” – pineapple is really good one and bottle size 600 ml is really good deal. Especially during hot Cameroon day.
Minibus is getting full so it is time to go. Even if one people is missing driver will not go. Everything is optimized for maximal efficiency. From European point of view minibus is overcrowded – four people in one row (seats are designed just for three persons). Travel time to Limbe wasn’t so long about 3 hours. It’s early afternoon so enough time to look around.
Limbe Botanic Garden. Cameroon. Limbe was founded in 1857 by British missionary Alfred Saker. It is now center of the region and popular spot for weekend trips of peoples from Douala - especially thanks to beaches northwest of town. I have two reasons for my visit – I wan to see Limbe Wildlife Center (zoo) with gorillas and chimpanzees and I will tomorrow continue to Korup NP and Limbe is on the way.
Street stalls with grilled fish are great for dinner. Limbe. Cameroon. My first steps go to the Limbe Wildlife Center. It is more small zoo than a big wildlife park but it is nice organized and kept well according to the local standard. It is easy to spot chimpanzees, low-land gorillas and other kind of monkeys. It is easy to spend an hour and watching the animals. After Wildlife center I continue to Limbe Botanic Garden – it is not best time to visit it at January because flowers are not blooming. But the garden is really huge and looks really great. I am walking more than hour around it and just before sunset I am leaving it by side entrance and I am walking along the coast. It is time for drink so I am enjoying sunset at seaside restaurant watching sea and sunset. Back to the centre and to find something for dinner. I am near sea so it is time for fish. Around sunset you can find street stalls selling grilled Spanish mackerels – it is great food. It is possible to eat it with bread, fried bananas or some kind of local bamboo-shoots.